After only around 4 hours of sleep -we hiked and climbed and made it to the top of the ruins in Athens. Took the E95 bus to the plaka...a center area with gardens and ruins and of course the Acropolis. Took some great pictures, and heard 6 languages-not counting English. By the end of the day we were experts at riding the buses. And at finding WC's (water closets).
24 Sept 2008
Our Olympic Air flight left very early in the morning and we stopped at one small airport before arriving at the island of Lesvos. Our driver was waiting and then.......a harrowing speed-demon, passing on hills and in no passing zones, accelerating around pedestrians, all the while talking and waving his hands.....you can tell that Jorhos (George) loves his taxi job! God! The retreat site is beautiful, on the lushest and most abundant side of the island. Pomegranites, pears, figs, apples, oleander, vanilla, roses, just beautiful. Our first practice was the night we arrived, not having our bodies quite on Greece time yet, the teacher (Barbara Voinar) led a very restorative class, plenty of breathing and time to think about the place we were in (disconnect from the distance we travelled, she told us). Dinner...........my, oh my, it will take an entire e-mail to describe it.........Zucchini blossoms stuffed with cheese, thin eggplant baked w/spices, potato and garlic, fresh yogurt w/honey and walnuts, fruit, a wonderful lentil spread on the hard crust bread. We went to bed so full and so tired. Our 'apartment' is merely a cabin with windows on four sides, so the airflow is amazing. Our own small kichenette area and bathroom. Some of the other 19 participants are in gypsy cabins and share a bathroom and common kitchen area. The owners are from Germany - Ursula and Ireni (who spend winters back home in Frankfurt). They love plants and trees, the place is a riot of growth and gardens, including the rock gardens/labyrinth/stonework.
25 Sept - 27 Sept 2008
The town of Molyvos is terraced - from a castle high on a hill down to the sea. We climbed up the narrow cobbled streets, past shops and homes, dodging cats, scooters and cars -the drivers in Greece are legendary for their daring and speed. Some touristy stuff/junk but also tucked in among the shops, you can find great treasure. For E 6.10 I bought a small beautiful sculpture made of alabaster. Took our time looking out over the land, the red tile roofs and the sea below. We purchased gifts and Coke (in 7 oz glass bottles) and pita chips at a spot next to the Agean. After a short rain shower, we found two lawn/sun chairs by the water (E 2.50 for the day), and spent several hours hunting rocks, reading and napping. Part of the beach is topless, part is not. I had my first alcohol in Greece, not Ouzo, but a draft beer called Mythos (like the character in Highlander -the oldest of the immortal).
28 Sept 2008
Efftalou - thermal springs......it was nearly dusk when the four taxi's dropped our group next to a crashing sea, the salt spray a fine mist of scent and feeling. Cold -but refreshing at first! I thought he was dumping us in the middle of nowhere.....yet tucked among the rocks is a domed concrete structure that is over 500 years old. Inside, the public bath.......our group had reserved it for this evening. With everyone already in suits and water shoes, we were encouraged to first take a cold shower (outside a small doorway was a showerhead....just open to the sea and the rocks, on a concrete platform, with a on/off handle) before entering the hot water. Oh my--- the sensation of being so vulnerable to the elements, and cold, really exposed! Then, back through the small doorway and down...down....down.....stone steps, ducking our heads and passing through an iron gate to see a square stone depression full of hot water that smelled like a volcano (which it is).......and hot! Oh my, very very hot. Pebbles and rocks covered the bottom, you could get all in or sit around the ledge with just your feet/legs in the water. We sang, we soaked, our voices echoed up to the small square openings in the roof of the "building". Then some awkwardness as we all figured out the best way to dress for dinner (there is only one wooden screen, and there were 16 people) then thankfully some cooperation as we held towels for each other. Barbara had told us the story of two rooms this week, both with a beautiful table, an abundant feast....but only one utensil - a spoon so long that you could not reach your mouth with the end......one room was complaining and spilling food and not happy with their circumstances, but the other room.....well, they were feeding each other and sharing and having a wonderful time. It's our interconnectedness and our perspective that is the secret to happiness. Dinner next to the sea - our first meal out in Greece, fresh Dorado and tuna, octopus in a wonderful red sauce (just one bite, but yum!). Wine and cats (yes, cats roam around everywhere, even next to your table at dinner). Taxi's back - a sound sleep like never before in my life.
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